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Tanning – a brief history
Spray Tanning (called also self tanning, fake tanning or UV-free
tanning) took its first commercial step in the US by Coppertone
at the end of 60s, as main answer to face increasing problem of
skin cancers related to UV exposure.
While sunless products may be available in different ways (cream,
spray and lotion), the main ingredient is always the same: DHA (Dihydroxyacetone).
DHA is a simple carbohydrate derived from sugar cane or sugar beets.
On the 20s, during medical tests it was discovered by chance to
be also a colouring agent for the skin. DHA basically reacts with
amino-acids contained in the horny lawyer of the skin, generating
at the same time yellow-brown points and providing then a ‘cosmetic’
tanning effect. Fake tanning usually lasts between 3 and 7 days,
according how deep DHA penetrates into the skin and how quick the
exfoliation is.
Spray tanning was
first launched during 60s by Coppertone as an alternative to UV
tanning, which may cause serious health consequences as skin cancers.
Unfortunately, the first generation of sunless products used to
cause more orange than brown effect, so it was not really successful.
During 80s, a second generation of sunless products was launched
with related big marketing activities, but it never overcame the
UV option, due basically to problems consisting in yellow effect
and patches. This second generation of sunless was indeed more oriented
to a strong immediate effect and at the same time to the longest
possible tanning effect. In order to reach that difficult double
purpose many addictives were added, so the long-lasting positive
effect was then balanced by a negative not-uniform penetration into
the skin and consequent patches. This caused a real limitation in
worldwide success of sunless tanning.
Last generation of sunless products is more beauty-oriented. It
tends to be as gentle as possible with the skin and to find a balance
between length of the effect and progressive uniform decrease of
the same. Many addictives have been taken out from formulations,
while the proposal is now more about a sunless continuous care that
starts in the salon to continue then at home by a periodic use of
creams, lotions and sprays. The immediate effect remains obviously
important, but as long as it does not cause negative effects during
exfoliation. We may say also that today the client is more interested
in obtaining a nice natural tanning colour than an unreal chocolate
one as in the past. Formulation at this purpose is extremely important
(hydrating agents as aloe vera are progressively more common into
sunless lotions) but also operator skills become this way essential.
This is the reason why finally sunless tanning is turning always
more an aesthetic procedure than a solarium one, with more specific
trained operators and less improvised.
Latest trend into this field is indeed a growing application in
the SPA and Beauty channel, while the indoor tanning one remains
important to balance the decrease of UV session demand.
Many manufacturers are today into the sunless business, main part
of them are still focused on the indoor tanning channel, while others
are progressively more focusing on the beauty skin-care area. In
the group of sunless brands focusing on indoor channel we may mention
Australian Gold, California Tan and SunJunkie. In the growing channel
of beauty skin care we may make reference to Lancôme, L’Oreal, That’so,
Shiseido and St Tropez.
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